Housetraining may not be the most FUN part of puppy life, but it is one of the MOST important! As a puppy trainer (and trainer to dogs of ALL ages), one of the most common areas to troubleshoot is housetraining. When a new puppy comes home, housetraining should be a top priority alongside proper socialization. This is also true of older puppies as well as adult rescue dogs finding a forever home.  Although the speed at which dogs vary greatly based on age, size, breed, temperament, and life experiences, the basic steps to housetrain ANY dog. The goal is for a dog to learn that living spaces (e.g. in the house) are NOT potty spaces. The steps to do so are surprisingly simple, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that the process is easy! More than anything else, proper housetraining requires CONSISTENCY from the human.  If you are struggling with household accidents, apply the six steps below to achieve success! 1)  Your pup should always be supervised or confined.   Supervise your pup closely or have them in the crate/pen/gated area. Supervised means if your pup has an accident, you will see it taking place.  The only exception to this rule is if you know your pup has just “done all of their business” and now has an “empty tank.” Then, you may be able to get away with a brief period of less intense supervision, but never no supervision.  2)   Give VERY frequent potty breaks outside at first.   This could be as often as every 30 minutes for a very young pup. Learn your pup’s patterns and set up your routine accordingly. Watch for sniffing, whining, circling, panting, or suddenly wandering away from you–these are signs that your pup needs to pee and/or poop. Acknowledge them and hustle outside immediately with your pup.  Also assume that your pup needs a potty break after activity, excitement, and transition times. For example: try a potty break after heavy chewing, play sessions, training, waking up from a nap, guest arrivals, etc.  3) Reward with food AS SOON AS your pup finishes their elimination (pee or poop).   This means that you must bring treats with you for potty breaks, OR have a sealed cache of treats outside already. A sealed glass Mason jar is an excellent choice for a treat jar.  Timing is KEY! As soon as the elimination is complete, say “yes!” happily and reward your pup immediately. This teaches them that eliminating outside is the correct behavior. If you forget food, reward with enthusiastic praise instead, but this will not be as effective as using edible rewards.   Important– do NOT wait until returning inside to reward, as your pup will assume they are being rewarded for coming in the house (not for going to the bathroom outside). This will slow down housetraining progress! 4) Interrupt accidents without fear, then take your pup outside immediately.  When you see an accident in progress, interrupt them with an attention-getting sound (e.g. clap, say “oops!” or “eh eh!”, knock on the wall, etc.) but NOT in an attempt to scare your pup. This is NOT a punishment, and scaring a pup only increases the chance that they’ll HIDE eliminations from you in the future, making housetraining much more difficult.  Once you’ve gotten your pup’s attention to interrupt the accident, take them outside right away. If they finish their elimination outside, reward with food as before. Stay outside for a few minutes without giving attention or eye contact (this is not a play session!) to determine if your pup still needs to go. If they do not potty more after a few minutes, bring inside and monitor heavily or crate your pup until you’re ready for the next potty break. 5) NEVER punish/scold your pup when you find an accident after the fact. They will not understand WHY you are angry about finding the accident . You will only make them fearful of YOU, their human protector. This makes housetraining more difficult and damages the emotional relationship with your pup, which makes EVERYTHING more difficult. When you find an accident, consider it simply a missed learning opportunity. Crate/confine your pup safely, and then clean up the mess thoroughly.  6) Use ENZYMATIC URINE CLEANERS to fully remove the smell of accidents.   Dogs have excellent noses and the persistent smell of urine on a surface tells a dog that it is okay to pee there again. Even if humans cannot smell the urine, a dog WILL smell the odor if not cleaned properly. There are many options on the market today (e.g. Nature’s Miracle Urine Destroyer), so just be sure that you select one intended specifically for dog urine and that using enzymes that BREAK DOWN the smell, rather than just mask or remove it.  If you are struggling to housetrain your puppy or adult dog, please reach out for a training session! There are other factors that can affect housetraining, so do not be shy if your housetraining journey is more complex and requires professional help!

“BE SURE TO SOCIALIZE YOUR PUPPY!” is one of the most common phrases new pup-parents hear. But this advice often breeds stress or confusion to folks that are already overwhelmed with puppy woes! After years as a puppy trainer (and trainer of dogs of all ages), I’d like to shed some light on the biggest socialization myths and tips: WHAT is puppy socialization?  Most folks are surprised to hear that “socialization” for puppies is NOT just puppy-playdates. In fact, this is only a small part of socializing a dog. Socialization is a process that involves carefully exposing a puppy to a rich variety of people, dogs, other animals, handling, surfaces, objects, sounds, and experiences in a positive way. Proper socialization is essential to the development of a confident, well-adjusted dog that is not fearful of new experiences.  WHEN do I socialize my puppy?  This process of socialization is time-sensitive—the critical period of socialization is the first ~12-16 weeks of a puppy’s life. This window is short and absolutely essential to proper social development in dogs. Some dog owners opt to wait to socialize their puppies until they are fully vaccinated. However, most puppies are not fully vaccinated until after 12 weeks of age. This presents a difficult problem for puppy owners: wait until the dog is fully vaccinated but the critical period of socialization has passed, OR begin socialization before the puppy is fully vaccinated and protected against infectious disease. The official position of the American Veterinary Society on Animal Behavior is that puppies should begin socialization before they are fully vaccinated, so long as they have had their first round of vaccinations and follow the suggested vaccination schedule. The reason for this is that the risk of not socializing a puppy during the critical period is greater than the risk of socializing a puppy that is not completely vaccinated. Lack of socialization during the critical period is linked to aggression and other fear-based behaviors in adult dogs. At your puppy’s first veterinary appointment, ask your vet which socialization experiences they recommend during this period and proceed according to their medical advice!  HOW do I socialize my puppy?  The best way to socialize a puppy is to expose them to a variety of new, positive experiences. The key here is the word positive . Neutral experiences will not help a puppy’s social development, while negative experiences (or a lack of experiences) will significantly hinder their social development. To make new experiences positive ones, pair all new experiences with high value food or treats. This teaches your pup that these experiences are positive and enjoyable. What should be AVOIDED when socializing my puppy? If your pup is fearful or overly-excited of any new experiences, do not pressure them! Increase the distance from the object or place until your pup is calm before rewarding with treats. Then slowly move closer at their pace and comfort level. Never push a puppy into an experience if they are uncomfortable. Remember, their early experiences must be positive!  Do not attempt to socialize your puppy in a situation where you do not have control. In particular, avoid situations such as dog parks where there are likely to be many uncontrolled (and often poorly trained) dogs. The best way to introduce your puppy to other dogs is in environments such as puppy play groups or one-on-one introductions to well-trained and well-socialized dogs. Also, don’t jump into situations where the level of stimulation is likely to be overwhelming to a puppy, such as a crowded city street or festival. Remember, you must work at the puppy’s pace so don’t jump into the complex situations first. A word of caution about doggie daycares for socialization–these environments typically do not have enough structure in the environment and allow social interactions to proceed for far too long, putting the pup at risk of hypersocial reactivity in adolescence and into adulthood. If it sounds too easy to be true, it probably IS. There are far better, less risky places to socialize a puppy than doggie daycare! Do I need a professional to socialize my puppy? It really depends on you, your dog, and your training goals! With access to high-quality information, many folks opt to socialize their puppy without professional help. These folks tend to be very self-motivated and often already have an understanding of proper socialization for dogs.  On the other hand, many folks are first-time puppy parents OR haven’t had a puppy since modern dog training research has shown us the way! In that case, it is best to enlist the help of a professional to ensure that the process is done properly, without stress or fear on the pup. For rescue puppies or those with more fearful temperaments, enlisting professional help gives the pup a greater chance at overcoming these stressors during development, making for a more confident and well-adjusted adult.  Finally, for those with prospective Service Animals or Therapy Dogs, working with a professional is the best way to ensure that the dog develops the confidence and skills needed for Public Access. These dogs must experience immersive socialization at a young age to normalize public, often chaotic environments, as part of the dog’s life. Not every pup who hopes to become a working dog will have the temperament to remain calm and collected in public environments, but proper socialization during the critical period drastically increases their chances of success! If you would like help with proper socialization, including checklists of necessary experiences, contact Arie with a training request at aebaugh@pupsunleashed.com !